Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A fine and testing pitch. Follow the line of steep grooves and overlaps just right of the base of the buttress, past a jug in the back of the groove and bolt on the left wall at five metres. © Rockfax

FA. Ron Fawcett, Al Evans, Dave Parker 1974. Ron Fawcett puts Chapel Head on the national map with the ascent of the much respected Moonchild. Moonchild has gradually drifted up the grades from E2..

Ticklists

100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Big Ron routes for mortals

Feedback

User Date Notes
UKB Shark 17 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: bold start - good skyhook placement - gives confidence (not joking)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bold start - good skyhook placement - gives confidence (not joking)

Logged Ascents

68 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 6 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Malice in Wonderland

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Hodge Close Quarry)

Loading Notifications...