Restricted Access

The crag lies within a National Nature Reserve and is an important area of SSSI semi-ancient woodland with Special Protection Area (SPA) status. The Lake District National Park Authority (responsible for managing recreation at Chapel Head) and the BMC have worked closely together to develop the following good practice guidelines which should be followed by all climbers visiting the crag:

  • No access to cliffs north of central gully.
  • Please do not remove ivy or damage trees along crag base.
  • Take all litter home with you.
  • There are no toilets at Chapel Head - please be discreet.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction for nesting peregrine, applies to the whole crag. This pair of birds are well established having nested sucessfully on the crag for a number of years.

As always, the nest site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if the young birds fledge early - this page will be kept udpated as soon as any additional information is received from those monitoring the site which might change the details of the restriction.

Rockfax Description
Linking the hard start of Unrighteous Doctors to the powerful upper section of Prime Evil gives an excellent pitch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A direct link climbing Unrighteous Doctors into the upper half of Prime Evil, taking in the crux of both routes.

Ticklists

UK 8a and up

Feedback

User Date Notes
sam clingclangclimb 17 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bolt below roof benefits from extender to avoid entanglement of foot
Show beta
βeta: Bolt below roof benefits from extender to avoid entanglement of foot

Logged Ascents

36 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chapel Head Scar

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 30 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Full Shilling

Grade: 8a ***
(Chapel Head Scar)

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