Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

40m, 3 pitches. NOTE - This is the original description. The first pitch was damaged in February 2014 and the route is now harder. Only tick this version if you did the route before Feb 2014.

A classic expedition up the seaward side of the large tooth-topped pinnacle, the summit of which can be seen in the lower reaches of Pinnacle Gully. There are two starts described the second being VS, a fine pitch but more difficult and serious than the rest of the climb. Start at the base of a steep and rounded vertical crack in the middle of the buttress.
1) 18m. From the base of the steep crack move up leftwards to a wide rounded crack in the corner on the left and follow this to a ledge. Move up the wall and crack leftwards to a good ledge and belay.
1a) VS 4b, 17m. Climb the tricky stepped vein in the wall 5m left of the steep rounded crack to a good small spike runner. Pull up to easier terrain and climb the wall just right of the arĂȘte to a good ledge and belay.
2) 10m. Take the steep crack above the ledge on good holds to another ledge and belay.
3) 12m. Climb up the corner behind the stance and move right onto the front of the pinnacle, beneath a wide crack in the summit block. Move up into the crack and climb to the summit.

FA. J.Mallory, M.Roster 24.03.1940. FA. J.Barford, F.Feilden 25.08.1940 (Variation first pitch).

Ticklists

Paul's pre-Kendal Kernow ticklist , West Country Climbs

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User Date Notes
Diverrobster 28 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This was originally graded a V.Diff in the guidebook in 1997 in the Bosigran and Chair Ladder guide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was originally graded a V.Diff in the guidebook in 1997 in the Bosigran and Chair Ladder guide.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 2
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Right Angle

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Gurnard's Head)

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