Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

60m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first pitch is a fine and pumpy outing. Start at the bottom of the slab, 6m left of the base of the Pegasus corner.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb directly up the slab to reach the base of the steep headwall. Pull up and gain a left-trending wide break and continue up the wall above on good holds to a small overhang. Pull through the small overhang and ascend directly to a stance and belay on a good ledge below a long chimney.
2) 30m. The long chimney/crack is followed all the way to the top of the cliff. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , HVS Cornwall , Target Routes 2019/2020

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User Date Notes
Peter271263 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Pumpy route.
Show beta
βeta: Pumpy route.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 33
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Till Dreaming's Done

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Maer Cliff (aka Northcott Mouth))

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