Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

57m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A long and varied line-up of steep pitches build to an exposed climax on the final headwall. Start left of the base of East Gully.
1) 4b, 13m. Climb three square-cut corners to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. On the left of the ledge are two parallel rounded cracks. Take these steeply, and the crack above, to another good belay ledge.
3) 5a, 17m. Climb easily to another ledge in an overhung recess. Follow the steep right-hand corner to the overhang and pull right to an exposed ledge and belay.
4) 5b, 12m. Move right beneath the wall to a line of weakness and climb to a black streak. Follow the black streak on small holds to a break and make a final tricky sequence to pass it. The top is just above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Kernow , West Country Climbs , South West in Extremis , Kernow

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User Date Notes
Kike Kikon 27 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A fulmar is currently nesting (1egg) in the horizontal break in P3
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fulmar is currently nesting (1egg) in the horizontal break in P3

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 51
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rock Dancer

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kenidjack Cliffs)

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