14m.

Rockfax Description
14m. Climb a crack to the arete of the buttress. Where it starts to slant away right, pull onto the face and follow a thin crack directly and with some difficulty in the upper part (big cam). Superb climbing, as good as anything of its grade in the Peak. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Castle Naze , Adele & Dave , Every Climb at Castle Naze , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , mega local corkers for me n sam, S-HVS , 2024

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben12345 7 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Good first route of the day, not really to difficult for the grade but gave some nice face climbing to towards the end.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good first route of the day, not really to difficult for the grade but gave some nice face climbing to towards the end.
Iain Thow 19 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Yes, best route here, a bit of everything, just enjoy the delicate top without faffing about for the not very good pro.
Show beta
βeta: Yes, best route here, a bit of everything, just enjoy the delicate top without faffing about for the not very good pro.
shaun walby 19 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb VS climbing...might not be technically top end 4c for any one move, but it gets harder as you climb with the crux balance move right at the top (well protected big & small cams). Its where you are when this one challenges you that made it feel solid upper end VS4c for me.
Show beta
βeta: Superb VS climbing...might not be technically top end 4c for any one move, but it gets harder as you climb with the crux balance move right at the top (well protected big & small cams). Its where you are when this one challenges you that made it feel solid upper end VS4c for me.
Si dH 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Don't need any large gear. Get a bomber nut at the start of the thin crack then jus go, the quality of the nut placements near the top isn't worth the effort of placing them. Proper VS, tricky moves all the way once you leave the wide crack and at least a couple that I felt were solid 4c. Lovely route.
Show beta
βeta: Don't need any large gear. Get a bomber nut at the start of the thin crack then jus go, the quality of the nut placements near the top isn't worth the effort of placing them. Proper VS, tricky moves all the way once you leave the wide crack and at least a couple that I felt were solid 4c. Lovely route.
leon 5 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i agree, top quality route. interesting throughout. gear's fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i agree, top quality route. interesting throughout. gear's fine.
Whealiebob 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I agree - great climb. Constant, but not too difficult 4b/c climbing that gets better the further up you go. Rivals any VS on grit for quality. (Except The File perhaps...)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree - great climb. Constant, but not too difficult 4b/c climbing that gets better the further up you go. Rivals any VS on grit for quality. (Except The File perhaps...)
Crammy 22 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb. Don't agree it's "high in the grade" as guide book now says. Well protected all the way with barely 4c moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climb. Don't agree it's "high in the grade" as guide book now says. Well protected all the way with barely 4c moves.
Monk 8 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I wouldn't call the moves bold, there is perfect protection all the way. An excellent route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I wouldn't call the moves bold, there is perfect protection all the way. An excellent route.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 253
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 239
Votes cast 230
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Inverted V

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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