Rockfax Description
The central line of the crag is a classic, giving sustained climbing with some very hard moves. The nature of the rock means that many of the holds are less helpful than they appear. A lot of the fixed gear is now very old. Start below a clean V-groove.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb to the V-groove. At its top, move leftwards and climb the wall to a bulge. Move leftwards through this to a belay which has some old fixed gear.
2) 5c, 30m. Move left, then climb diagonally up right to a small roof. Pull through this and go up the ramp. At its top, pull back left through the top roof. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E3 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
smally 22 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Two pegbolts on the lower section, both by old peg placements. Ab station ok, one of the wires (no.9) looking a bit rusty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two pegbolts on the lower section, both by old peg placements. Ab station ok, one of the wires (no.9) looking a bit rusty.
Si Witcher 24 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: At least 1 drilled/glued runner in place now to replace previous old hammered peg.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At least 1 drilled/glued runner in place now to replace previous old hammered peg.
Ched 1998 Show βeta
βeta: Flashed the 6a move then ran out of steam going through the bulge before the stance. Grrrr.
Show beta
βeta: Flashed the 6a move then ran out of steam going through the bulge before the stance. Grrrr.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Castell Cidwm

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dinorwig Unconquerable

Grade: E3 5c ***
(The Lost World/Heaven Walls)

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