Rockfax Description
A tricky route with just enough gear. Scramble up a ramp behind the oak tree to a stance below the steep wall, at an arete.
1) 6a, 28m. Move onto the arete and up this with extreme difficulty to eventually gain cracks by a prominent undercut. Continue up towards the overlap where the climbing starts to ease off. Move up and right to join and follow Hardd.
2) 5c, 17m. Step right to a groove then again onto the blank wall. A tricky move up gains the left side of an overhanging groove, from where you head direct over outrageously steep terrain to a niche below another overhang. Thankfully you can escape left to easier terrain. Grovel to the top exhausted. © Rockfax
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ian bryant | 29 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 1st pitch: guidebook states go right through the roof, but at the roof you firstly make the crux move left then reach over and move right once your hands are over the roof. We belayed at a collection of pegs and tat which might have been the hardd original belay, we reached that point by climbing up maybe 4m through a bulge at the end of the delicate traverse, this seemed to fit the guidebook, but we wonder whether you should continue more left after the delicate traverse to belay in a 2nd groove line with a brown stained wall on its left which is further up and left (there was a piece of purple rope hanging in that groove, maybe for an abseil). Consequently our 2nd pitch didn't fit the description and was also pretty 'ard and 'totally out there'! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 1st pitch: guidebook states go right through the roof, but at the roof you firstly make the crux move left then reach over and move right once your hands are over the roof. We belayed at a collection of pegs and tat which might have been the hardd original belay, we reached that point by climbing up maybe 4m through a bulge at the end of the delicate traverse, this seemed to fit the guidebook, but we wonder whether you should continue more left after the delicate traverse to belay in a 2nd groove line with a brown stained wall on its left which is further up and left (there was a piece of purple rope hanging in that groove, maybe for an abseil). Consequently our 2nd pitch didn't fit the description and was also pretty 'ard and 'totally out there'! |
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Guidebooks for Carreg Hyll-Drem
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Jack of Shadows
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)