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USER ATTENTION

3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.

A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.

from 03/03/0023

Rockfax Description
An awe-inspiring route whose main pitch climbs the central section of the severely-overhanging upper buttress. Start as for pitch 1 of America; or at the stance at the top of its first pitch if the tide or sea conditions do not allow access to the base.
1) 5b, 26m. Pitch 1 of America.
2) 5c, 20m. Move rightwards and climb up the slab to meet the corner formed with the steep upper buttress. Climb the slab to the left of the corner and continue to a stance at a crack on the left side of a large block.
3) 6a, 20m. Move up the slab for 3m and climb the wall to a flat handhold. Traverse right to a large block on the edge of an overhang and ascend a thin crack and shallow groove above to a peg and a shake-out on the right. Committing moves up the overhanging wall leftwards lead to flake holds that are traversed steeply right to a large sloping ledge and belay.
4) 5b, 15m. Move steeply left to a huge niche. From here, traverse left until it is possible to gain a corner above that leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , West Country Climbs

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kellanesis

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Kellan Head)

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