Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

10m.

Rockfax Description
Pull awkwardly up the rib to the roof then climb the face above, starting with a long reach, then easing. © Rockfax

FA. Keith Sharples 1977.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Christheclimber 30 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not runout!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not runout!
Different Steve 27 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If Millsom's minion is E1 then so is this - very similar levels of difficulty and runout/gear. Presumably could be protected (at HVS) with a side runner in big chimney arete.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If Millsom's minion is E1 then so is this - very similar levels of difficulty and runout/gear. Presumably could be protected (at HVS) with a side runner in big chimney arete.
SARS 25 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This is more HVS than Knight's Move. Crux move is well protected though (if you have the right rack).
βeta?
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βeta: This is more HVS than Knight's Move. Crux move is well protected though (if you have the right rack).
Monk 21 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The photo is Christmas Crack at Stanage!
βeta?
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βeta: The photo is Christmas Crack at Stanage!
Monk 21 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good route but harder than I expected and not alot of gear. Might be easier if you are tall.
βeta?
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βeta: Good route but harder than I expected and not alot of gear. Might be easier if you are tall.
Crammy 2 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Good route. But not the one in the photo above.
βeta?
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βeta: Good route. But not the one in the photo above.
Ropeboy 11 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely route, the crux being the reach off the undercut to the break. Shame Windjammer is not on the database, another excellent route with a brilliant move up the left arete.
βeta?
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βeta: A lovely route, the crux being the reach off the undercut to the break. Shame Windjammer is not on the database, another excellent route with a brilliant move up the left arete.

Logged Ascents

620 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Burbage North

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 98
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 98
Votes cast 85
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Plexity

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)

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