Restricted Access

No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate. 

8m.

Rockfax Description
An elegant curving flake with a layback move and long stretch before things ease. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Aither 19 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Is short lived but lovely
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is short lived but lovely
Joe Costello 17 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Much easier than the Chant which is HVS 5a i think. 4c is generous! A fairly average route really. Worth a go.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Much easier than the Chant which is HVS 5a i think. 4c is generous! A fairly average route really. Worth a go.
fenclimb 20 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: the flake takes a tri cam, forget the size which is pretty bommer and also a decent nut, still felt right at hvs 5a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the flake takes a tri cam, forget the size which is pretty bommer and also a decent nut, still felt right at hvs 5a
RobRock 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Gear is good you can get a couple of small nuts in the lay back without loosing hand holds, my second took a while to get them out - they would have held! Don't try cams, which I saw someone attempt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gear is good you can get a couple of small nuts in the lay back without loosing hand holds, my second took a while to get them out - they would have held! Don't try cams, which I saw someone attempt.
nate 15 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: bouldered it and was fun, don't think it would of been hard to place gear
βeta?
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βeta: bouldered it and was fun, don't think it would of been hard to place gear
GrahamD 25 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is probably quite reach dependant. For the average/tall person (I'm 5'11") it is a very easy undertaking at the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is probably quite reach dependant. For the average/tall person (I'm 5'11") it is a very easy undertaking at the grade.
The old James turnbull 14 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: think with the gear being down at the bootom of the lay back means could be quite a fall on a bad landing, so hence hvs. easy 5a but think graded right.better landing may make it a boulder problem
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: think with the gear being down at the bootom of the lay back means could be quite a fall on a bad landing, so hence hvs. easy 5a but think graded right.better landing may make it a boulder problem
Robo 21 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: More like a boulder problem than a route...but I wouldn't like to fall off it! Well worth doing, and my first HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: More like a boulder problem than a route...but I wouldn't like to fall off it! Well worth doing, and my first HVS.
Nick Smith - Climbers 9 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely little route. Felt about 5a and a bit soft for HVS, but probably not a VS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely little route. Felt about 5a and a bit soft for HVS, but probably not a VS.
Skyfall 18 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, quite easy for the adj grade perhaps (one long stretch etc) but surely 5a and quite strenuous.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, quite easy for the adj grade perhaps (one long stretch etc) but surely 5a and quite strenuous.

Logged Ascents

1156 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Burbage North

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 156
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 150
Votes cast 135
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Portland Street

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Millstone Edge)

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