Restricted Access
No access problems. The area is part of the Eastern Edges SSSI designated for its assemblage of breeding birds - please make sure dogs are under control to protect birds and sheep: the grazier has reported losses.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzel nest sites change quickly and frequently as they often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Rockfax Description
Climb the grim fat-fist crack to its end then traverse left reach to the pleasant right-trending groove. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Chatsworth to Bamford , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 S , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , Burbage Valley Circuit VD to VS , Diffage Comp
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| popebenedictus | 8 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree with some of the above comments especially No.11 camp hex in the bottom offwidth (or no.10 placed sideways). Arm-bar and leg-jam got me off the ground and udging up to the break. S 4a seemed about right for grade. Took a nice line at the top up the left hand side of the nose (horizontal jam and reach for the lip). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agree with some of the above comments especially No.11 camp hex in the bottom offwidth (or no.10 placed sideways). Arm-bar and leg-jam got me off the ground and udging up to the break. S 4a seemed about right for grade. Took a nice line at the top up the left hand side of the nose (horizontal jam and reach for the lip). |
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| mark75 | 20 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is a good route but why is everyone trying to overgrade it? The crack has excellent foot jams (and I'm not that good at cracks), the pro is more than adequate if you are using a modern rack and the hand holds in the break are massive (especially further left). The hardest move probably is 4a (just) but thats all there is to it. After the break it's a scramble. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is a good route but why is everyone trying to overgrade it? The crack has excellent foot jams (and I'm not that good at cracks), the pro is more than adequate if you are using a modern rack and the hand holds in the break are massive (especially further left). The hardest move probably is 4a (just) but thats all there is to it. After the break it's a scramble. |
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| Ouncepounce | 11 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: A lovely climb, but fist jam? Try a few delicate bance moves laying away on the left. Good S4b. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A lovely climb, but fist jam? Try a few delicate bance moves laying away on the left. Good S4b. |
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| victim of mathematics | 11 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: A willingness to foot jam makes the start a bit more do-able, but it is still nails for the grade. S4a, or maybe even 4b at a push. All HVDiff leaders should own a big cam. I own several! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A willingness to foot jam makes the start a bit more do-able, but it is still nails for the grade. S4a, or maybe even 4b at a push. All HVDiff leaders should own a big cam. I own several! |
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| Dan_S | 1 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Bottom crack takes a camp 11 hex nicely. Difficult start, but nice climbing after the traverse. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bottom crack takes a camp 11 hex nicely. Difficult start, but nice climbing after the traverse. |
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| Nutkey | 1 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The crack is bigger than a no 9 rockcentric, at least at the start. I didn't have much job placing it at the top either, and didn't need to, as there was enough choice of other placements. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The crack is bigger than a no 9 rockcentric, at least at the start. I didn't have much job placing it at the top either, and didn't need to, as there was enough choice of other placements. |
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| Nutkey | 31 May, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fists? Managed some foot jams, and the odd knee... A good route, did it on a single rope, and all the tricky stuff is over by the time you get to the top of the crack (and place the first gear!). Size 4 cam? How many HVD leaders have one of them? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fists? Managed some foot jams, and the odd knee... A good route, did it on a single rope, and all the tricky stuff is over by the time you get to the top of the crack (and place the first gear!). Size 4 cam? How many HVD leaders have one of them? |
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| Simon Caldwell | 13 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: We found the start harder than Hollyash Crack, fewer holds and more polished. It's just narrow enough to be protected by a big friend though. S 4b or maybe HS 4b IMO. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: We found the start harder than Hollyash Crack, fewer holds and more polished. It's just narrow enough to be protected by a big friend though. S 4b or maybe HS 4b IMO. |
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| Monk | 27 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: After the first move up the crack there are huge jugs. A size 4 cam will fit nicely in the crack if you need it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: After the first move up the crack there are huge jugs. A size 4 cam will fit nicely in the crack if you need it. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fist width? OFFWIDTH! skidded of the polished holds and was quite glad to have been walking a size 4 friend up the crack, just brushed the ground. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fist width? OFFWIDTH! skidded of the polished holds and was quite glad to have been walking a size 4 friend up the crack, just brushed the ground. |
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| Chris Fitzhugh | 25 Feb, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Undergraded unless perhaps you have massive fists and wear big boots. It's fun watching first time visitors, E1 leaders, trying to warm up on this route. But it is worth a hard fight - a fine route. Chris FitzHugh | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Undergraded unless perhaps you have massive fists and wear big boots. It's fun watching first time visitors, E1 leaders, trying to warm up on this route. But it is worth a hard fight - a fine route. Chris FitzHugh |
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