88m, 4 pitches.
A Route of real character. The rock is superb & the lower piches build interest to a fine climax on the upper tower. Well worth seeking out, and a good choice to extend the day after an ascent of 'Grooved Arete'. Start at the foot of the rib above the grassy chimney.
1) 18m (4a) Climb the rib to a grass ledge & possible belay below a slab of rough striated rock. Climb the slab with interest. or avoid it on the right =, to reach the foot of a narrow rib.
2) 28m (4a) Climb the rib by it's left side, steeply but with good holds, and continue to a large block-strewn ledge below the impressive tower.
3) 20m (4a) Ahead lies an impressive deep V-groove. Enter this from the left & climb steeply up into a recess. Traverse out left to an airy perch & possible belay. Climb the slab in a fine position to a belay below the final steep section of ridge.
4) 20m (4a) Climb the steep rib on it's left, and then stroll along the knife edged ridge to the top.
VARIATION: 3a) 24m (VS 4c) The crack in the tower is climbed direct until a nasty bulge gives access to the chimney above.
1) 18m (4a) Climb the rib to a grass ledge & possible belay below a slab of rough striated rock. Climb the slab with interest. or avoid it on the right =, to reach the foot of a narrow rib.
2) 28m (4a) Climb the rib by it's left side, steeply but with good holds, and continue to a large block-strewn ledge below the impressive tower.
3) 20m (4a) Ahead lies an impressive deep V-groove. Enter this from the left & climb steeply up into a recess. Traverse out left to an airy perch & possible belay. Climb the slab in a fine position to a belay below the final steep section of ridge.
4) 20m (4a) Climb the steep rib on it's left, and then stroll along the knife edged ridge to the top.
VARIATION: 3a) 24m (VS 4c) The crack in the tower is climbed direct until a nasty bulge gives access to the chimney above.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dave Garnett | 1 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: The start of pitch 4 isn't obvious - it's round the corner on the left up some steep jugs. Don't miss it out because it has the best three moves on the route! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The start of pitch 4 isn't obvious - it's round the corner on the left up some steep jugs. Don't miss it out because it has the best three moves on the route! |
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| TobyA | 30 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Where the first pitch is isn\'t clear, we traversed in and seem to have ended up above it but it\'s just walking. The big groove pitch is spectacular but lots of loose and hollow flakes - Dave pronounced it \"dangerous\", I\'d go for \"a bit worrying\". | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Where the first pitch is isn't clear, we traversed in and seem to have ended up above it but it's just walking. The big groove pitch is spectacular but lots of loose and hollow flakes - Dave pronounced it "dangerous", I'd go for "a bit worrying". |
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Route of Interest
The Insomniacs Traverse
Grade: S 4a ***
(Tryfan Fach [Little Tryfan])