Rockfax Description
Hard and fingery wall climbing that is at the top of the grade. Start just right of the diagonal crack of Chepito. Take the wall to the break. Make some fingery moves to larger holds and then climb with increasing difficulty to a final easing on the top wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Generally thought to be F7c now

F Haden, G A Jenkin, E Heslam 23/Apr/1995.

Ticklists

The road to 8a , West Country Climbs , Brean Down Sports Climbs , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , South Side Sport , 7Bs with stars near Bristol , High in the grade near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
dinodinosaur 23 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Steady 7b+ I think if you use the right beta and pretty fun moves. (Not the beta on the YouTube video)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Steady 7b+ I think if you use the right beta and pretty fun moves. (Not the beta on the YouTube video)
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 12 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Much harder than 7b+ now after the holdloss. Two ways of moving through crux but both challenging.
Show beta
βeta: Much harder than 7b+ now after the holdloss. Two ways of moving through crux but both challenging.
Tall Oak 6 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: V hard! I have some weird beta and a hard boulder move layback which may not be correct. I was grunting to get the boulder section done. Not sure on the second part as also an energy zapper. Have read it tails off after first crux but for me, and my beta, I think its only marginal. Will give it another go for sure.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: V hard! I have some weird beta and a hard boulder move layback which may not be correct. I was grunting to get the boulder section done. Not sure on the second part as also an energy zapper. Have read it tails off after first crux but for me, and my beta, I think its only marginal. Will give it another go for sure.
plant_based_tommo 7 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely a fair bit harder since losing the crucial pinch in the crux. certainly 7c now but pretty cruxy! technical and hard to read. Video here: https://youtu.be/M1bw0dSBT1E
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely a fair bit harder since losing the crucial pinch in the crux. certainly 7c now but pretty cruxy! technical and hard to read. Video here: https://youtu.be/M1bw0dSBT1E

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 120
Votes cast 98
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Return of the skyscraper

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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