Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

35m.

Rockfax Description
An incredibly steep and pumpy climb that wends its withering way up a series of well-protected cracks in the centre of the wall. Start on top of a massive boulder at the base of the abseil. From the boulder, climb a thin crack to the low horizontal break. Move left and climb the accommodating crack-line rightwards on good holds, to a jug in black rock. Step right and then up until a move up and left gains a jug at the base of a slightly overhung niche. Climb into the niche and then step right to follow a right-trending crack/flake into the right-hand niche. Then head up to belay on the abseil rope where the angle drops back. Pull out on the abseil rope to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A better description would be: From the boulder, climb a thin crack to the low horizontal break. Move left and climb the accommodating crack-line rightwards on good holds to a jug in black rock. Step right and then up until a move up and left gains a jug at the base of a slightly overhung niche. Climb into the niche and then step right to follow a right trending crack/flake into the righthand niche and then up to belay on the abseil rope where the angle drops back. Pull out on the abseil rope to finish.
Note: the line drawn on the photo in the 2015 (or is it 2014?) CC Swanage guide is, in my view, wrong (following it makes the route much harder!). The description in the guide is more accurate, however at the overhung niche you step right rather than climb the crack above you (as suggested by the guidebook). Oh, and the pre-placed rope is a must, unless you also take an ice-axe!

FA. Martin Crocker 11/Jun/1983.

Ticklists

Top five E5s , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Littlejohn South West Climbs , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Swanage wild pumpfests , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Lines that inspire - E5

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
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Route of Interest
The Fabulous Professor Panic

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Hedbury)

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