Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Pleasant and varied. Start below a capped V-groove. The start is 5b but the fantastic second pitch feels the harder of the two.
1) 5b, 18m. Thrutch up the groove to a crack. Move left over a roof then right onto the face. Climb a crack to the faultline.
2) 5a, 20m. Gain the wall above and take a crack to a bulge. Pass this and climb slabs to a small corner finishing rightwards. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 11/May/1969.

Ticklists

Dorset Routes that are worth doing , All-the-starred-non-bird-banned-E1s-at-the-Ruckle-in-a-day challenge

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User Date Notes
jtree03 2 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Very tricky/strenuous start, exciting moves across the face to get to the deep crack. Lots of fulmars watching us belay. Lovely top pitch, good solid 5a with some nice moves right to the finishing corner. Marvellous!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very tricky/strenuous start, exciting moves across the face to get to the deep crack. Lots of fulmars watching us belay. Lovely top pitch, good solid 5a with some nice moves right to the finishing corner. Marvellous!

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 31
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Strongbow

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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