Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The abseil line is the safest escape and also a worthy route.
1) 4b, 14m. Climb the crack above the fin-backed boulder to a large ledge and belay at the faultline.
2) 4c, 21m. Climb the next crack boldly around a roof and continue to a ledge on the left. Move right into a corner to finish. © Rockfax

FA. R.Kent, Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 04/May/1969.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , Swanage A-Z , West Country Climbs , Orange Spot Swanage , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Routes for MCI

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User Date Notes
doctorcurly 18 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: D
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βeta: D
Different Steve 28 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Plenty of gear on 1st pitch if you're strong enough to place it - hextastic.
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βeta: Plenty of gear on 1st pitch if you're strong enough to place it - hextastic.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 60
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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