Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

2 pitches. Take the steep corner crack to the right of the usual starting groove of Lightning Wall. Large gear useful for the upper section under the faultline, where the crack widens. Reasonable protection with sustained climbing. Gain the faultline and move right onto the wall above the roof (placing good protection) before traversing rightwards on good holds to the arĂȘte. Follow the arĂȘte to a niche, old peg, move up and then head right to an easier corner that leads to the top. This gives a slightly harder alternative start for the lower pitch of Lightning Wall.

NB. This was the original start to Elysium done by Rich Crewe on the FA (which can also be started this way before move right at the faultline.

Ticklists

Cool Names , Dorset Good Trad D-E2

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
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Votes cast 5
High 5c
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Behemoth

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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