The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Well travelled and protectable climbing, sustained but never too desperate. Start below a slim, right-facing corner in the smooth face below the main faultline.
1) 5b, 16m. Pull up strenuously onto a ledge and move up a corner to an overhang. Climb another overhang and the slim corner/rib to the faultline and belay.
2) 5b, 22m. Step right and pull over the overhang into an open groove. Follow the groove to an overhang before moving right and climbing to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Richard Crewe, K.Winkworth 29.10.1967. Pitch 2 used to be protected by two pegs which were removed by a falling leader (who survived)..
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 29 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: There is now a stuck sling now thread in the lower part. Best be chopped (or used). Depends on your style. We couldn\'t get this out. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is now a stuck sling now thread in the lower part. Best be chopped (or used). Depends on your style. We couldn't get this out. |
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ian bryant | 24 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: i'm amazed that 7 out of 17 votes cast to date think this is more like 5c than 5b! i thought it was one of the easiest e2s i've ever done and whilst having sustained moves they were interspersed with good rests - the climbing was definitely no more than 5b and only that because of it's sustained and fairly steep nature, or was i just having a good day?! good route either way. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: i'm amazed that 7 out of 17 votes cast to date think this is more like 5c than 5b! i thought it was one of the easiest e2s i've ever done and whilst having sustained moves they were interspersed with good rests - the climbing was definitely no more than 5b and only that because of it's sustained and fairly steep nature, or was i just having a good day?! good route either way. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)