Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good route taking the crack on the right of the bay.
1) 5a, 18m. Follow the crack to the faultline. Move left then over a bulge to a belay (poor peg and good nuts).
2) 5b, 18m. Traverse right for 5m and gain the right-hand side of the high roof line. Pass it leftwards - tricky - and take the groove above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. George Hounsome, T.Daniels 13/Aug/1977.

Ticklists

100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
GrahamD 15 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you found Prudence OK, you should try this one. Solid rock and never desperate.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you found Prudence OK, you should try this one. Solid rock and never desperate.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Strongbow

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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