Restricted Access

The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.

35m.

Rockfax Description
A Swanage classic. An awesome line that tackles a tapering groove loaded with good gear and large holds. Climb the right-facing corner past a bulge at 15m into a niche. Continue past the bulge at the faultline and ascend the narrowing continuation groove in a very spectacular position. © Rockfax

FA. G.Smith, D.Hadlum 12/Apr/1966.

Ticklists

WMC Boulder Ruckle Top20 , West Country Climbs , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement , Orange Spot Swanage , UK Classic Corners , Ultimate HVS ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , South West VDiff-HVS , The V.S.+ Ticklist , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Iain Weymouth 15 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Dispatched said block to its final watery resting place - RIP (Rest In Pieces) ! It was a decent size and leaves an obvious gap but shouldn't adversely affect the route as there are plenty of alternative holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dispatched said block to its final watery resting place - RIP (Rest In Pieces) ! It was a decent size and leaves an obvious gap but shouldn't adversely affect the route as there are plenty of alternative holds.
Tatarek 23 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A big loose block, used as a hold judging by the chalk, 3/4 up the route. Best to ab down the line first and remove it before trying to lead. I wasn\'t in a position to do so once I figured it out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A big loose block, used as a hold judging by the chalk, 3/4 up the route. Best to ab down the line first and remove it before trying to lead. I wasn't in a position to do so once I figured it out.
Jon Greengrass 12 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, with a wild finish, the pegs are now completely rotten.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, with a wild finish, the pegs are now completely rotten.
Ramon Marin 1 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: On of those route that make you very happy to spend the summer in the UK. Extraordinary.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On of those route that make you very happy to spend the summer in the UK. Extraordinary.
PaulW 31 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, best I have led this year by far. 4C is about right but there is lots of it and it gets pumpy working out the best line. Found 2 old pegs. Tpo out was ok compared to most the the Ruckle.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, best I have led this year by far. 4C is about right but there is lots of it and it gets pumpy working out the best line. Found 2 old pegs. Tpo out was ok compared to most the the Ruckle.
Phil not the power Taylor 9 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: 4C probably, but sustained 4C from under the bulge which makes it feel more like 5A. Great Route. Gritty and ever so slightly loose exit certainly concentrates the mind! Only seems to be one rusty peg near the top now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 4C probably, but sustained 4C from under the bulge which makes it feel more like 5A. Great Route. Gritty and ever so slightly loose exit certainly concentrates the mind! Only seems to be one rusty peg near the top now.
The Pylon King 28 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: My first route at Swanage and what a cracker! (on my birthday too!) Beautiful christmas sun
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first route at Swanage and what a cracker! (on my birthday too!) Beautiful christmas sun
GrahamD 12 Nov, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Superb ! Sustained quality and safe. The crux maybe outwitting the first bulge but the most intimidating section is right at the top. The top 10' felt a bit looser (11/11/01) than I remembered it ?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb ! Sustained quality and safe. The crux maybe outwitting the first bulge but the most intimidating section is right at the top. The top 10' felt a bit looser (11/11/01) than I remembered it ?

Logged Ascents

919 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Boulder Ruckle

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 250 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 182
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 178
Votes cast 168
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
David's Metraverse

Grade: HVS 4a ***
(Cave Hole)

Loading Notifications...