The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Good climbing and very exposed. Start at a cave just west of a huge undercut buttress.
1) 4c, 15m. Climb the corner above the cave. At the faultline, move right to belay on a thread around an ammonite.
2) 4c, 15m. Head up leftwards to a crack in the roof and pull around in a sensational position to continuation cracks. These lead to a ledge and the exit corner as for Nassty Spider. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Crew, P.A.Bell 29/Aug/1964.
100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Orange Spot Swanage , UK Classic Corners , Dorset weekender , Ultimate HVS ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , The V.S.+ Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Will789 | 17 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Don’t be dissuaded by reports of loose rock, the blocks in question are too massive to be forced out by the weight of a person. Be careful of course but realistically the only thing capable of budging them is the forces of nature. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Don’t be dissuaded by reports of loose rock, the blocks in question are too massive to be forced out by the weight of a person. Be careful of course but realistically the only thing capable of budging them is the forces of nature. |
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kevin stephens | 6 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Good as a single pitch with careful rope work | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good as a single pitch with careful rope work |
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Grade: HVS 4a ***
(Cave Hole)