Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter.
Rockfax Description
This route is a wild, crazy trip into the bowels of the earth. It starts as for Quoin, and traverses into the low sea cave to the right, thereafter firing up through a massive blowhole system, to arrive at the top blowhole exit (see photo right). Big, big adventure! Please note that the route is much harder when it's soaking wet. In perfect conditions it may only be HVS, in normal conditions it is around E2, and in wild conditions it is even harder and inadvisable. Check the blowhole exit before you commit, as this gives you an idea of how wet the route is likely to be - it does occasionally dry out, especially with a strong, dry southerly blowing. Head torches very much required (as is an easy-going sense of humour). But then again, there's also that first ascent date!
1) 5b, 15m. Traverse rightwards into the cave, aiming for its apex. Ape into the cave to reach a good belay 4m inside, on a boulder choke.
2) 5a, 10m. Bridge inwards to where the cave widens. Committing but surprisingly easy moves across the left wall lead to a corner beneath daylight. Belay here.
3) 5a, 25m. Follow the corner above to one of the strangest finishes at Pembroke. © Rockfax
FA. P.Dearden, D.Scott-Maxwell 01/Apr/1995.
Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , The troglodyte squeeze specials , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Through Routes! , MIA logbook must haves! , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , MUMC Ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , Type 2 Fun , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , Becky's ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , Thank god I don't have to do that again , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes , Pembroke ticket , Weird and Wonderful , Pembs '21 , Hilariously ‘Adventurous’ Routes , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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HappyTrundler | 13 Aug, 2011 |
Show βeta
βeta: One of the most traumatic climbing days ever. I had the old rockfax guide with it down at HVS. These days I consider myself a reasonably competent low e grade climber, however this felt more like caving than climbing. The second pitch was streaming in water so reversed back from the crux to the belay and reversed the first pitch. I would even suggest E3 just to discourage any aspiring E2 leaders...if it goes wrong down there you are in serious trouble...no one can throw a rope down and you can't abb off, there is no leader or second on this climb, in fact probably worse and more dangerous to second. I have no desire to go back in there again, ever. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: One of the most traumatic climbing days ever. I had the old rockfax guide with it down at HVS. These days I consider myself a reasonably competent low e grade climber, however this felt more like caving than climbing. The second pitch was streaming in water so reversed back from the crux to the belay and reversed the first pitch. I would even suggest E3 just to discourage any aspiring E2 leaders...if it goes wrong down there you are in serious trouble...no one can throw a rope down and you can't abb off, there is no leader or second on this climb, in fact probably worse and more dangerous to second. I have no desire to go back in there again, ever. |
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chris wyatt | 2 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: One of the most dangerous undertakings I have ever done. Climbed far chimney instead of wall. 2nd pitch took 3 hours of complete concentration on slime. This is not climbing its caving. DONT DO IT!!! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: One of the most dangerous undertakings I have ever done. Climbed far chimney instead of wall. 2nd pitch took 3 hours of complete concentration on slime. This is not climbing its caving. DONT DO IT!!! |
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DSM | 17 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Although I've only done Preposterous Tales the once - on a dark damp day in April, without torches, chalk or prior knowledge of the route - I recall some debate as to the grade. Did it merit HVS or VS? It appears that one can be so wrong sometimes! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Although I've only done Preposterous Tales the once - on a dark damp day in April, without torches, chalk or prior knowledge of the route - I recall some debate as to the grade. Did it merit HVS or VS? It appears that one can be so wrong sometimes! |
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John Alcock | 16 May, 2005 |
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βeta: PS. You should include the High Life in the next guide. It's as good as Dream of White Horses. E1/2 5c. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: PS. You should include the High Life in the next guide. It's as good as Dream of White Horses. E1/2 5c. |
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John Alcock | 16 May, 2005 |
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βeta: One of Britain's finest climbing adventures. The grade varies wildly. On a damp dark December day with a big sea running and no torch it felt like E4. I've met people who've climbed it in perfect conditions who swear it's only HVS. Very high failure rate ( I've often watched retreated parties while doing neghbouring climbs.) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: One of Britain's finest climbing adventures. The grade varies wildly. On a damp dark December day with a big sea running and no torch it felt like E4. I've met people who've climbed it in perfect conditions who swear it's only HVS. Very high failure rate ( I've often watched retreated parties while doing neghbouring climbs.) |
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GrahamD | 9 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: This route is a serious undertaking - far more so than other Pembroke routes of E2. Do not go near it if a big sea is running - even 50' up in the cave you will catch the waves and it ain't funny. The first traverse pitch is actually technically the hardest (about 5b), often damp and protection is adequate but not great until the chockstone is reached. After this, retreating is not really an option. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This route is a serious undertaking - far more so than other Pembroke routes of E2. Do not go near it if a big sea is running - even 50' up in the cave you will catch the waves and it ain't funny. The first traverse pitch is actually technically the hardest (about 5b), often damp and protection is adequate but not great until the chockstone is reached. After this, retreating is not really an option. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Linney Head Area)