Restricted Access

Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.  (2023 - this restriction has been lifted from July 3rd 2023)

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter.  (Lifted for 2023) 

 

 

 

 

45m.

Rockfax Description
A grand and engaging little adventure, with a comfortable half-height belay option. Climb out of the lower cleft, and continue past two bulges; continue up the wall above, to reach a rest (possible stance) below a corner in the right side of the upper arete. Climb the superb, balancy corner to a steep exit. © Rockfax

FA. S.Titt, R.Crewe 28/May/1978.

Ticklists

Pembroke VDiff-HVS , UK Holiday Plans

Feedback

User Date Notes
pauldrew 3 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Now given HVS 5a in the new CC supplement - feels about right, particularly if you stay in the lower groove without wandering left or right.
βeta?
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βeta: Now given HVS 5a in the new CC supplement - feels about right, particularly if you stay in the lower groove without wandering left or right.
Alkis 28 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch very underwhelming.
βeta?
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βeta: First pitch very underwhelming.
dinodinosaur 20 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The second pitch as described in the wired guides definitive gets 4a, the CC select guide gives it 5a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The second pitch as described in the wired guides definitive gets 4a, the CC select guide gives it 5a
scott titt 28 May, 1978 Show βeta
βeta: On the FA I climbed the cleft and steep crack without going onto the easier ground on the left. Richard led the final corner, we were both very used to the steep corners of Swanage, and found this one easy so gave it 4a, the holds are huge, and the steepness can be avoided by wide bridging, in modern terms maybe 4c?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On the FA I climbed the cleft and steep crack without going onto the easier ground on the left. Richard led the final corner, we were both very used to the steep corners of Swanage, and found this one easy so gave it 4a, the holds are huge, and the steepness can be avoided by wide bridging, in modern terms maybe 4c?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bosherston Head

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 32
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Blue Sky

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Saddle Head)

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