Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter. (2023 - this restriction has been lifted from July 3rd 2023)
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter. (Lifted for 2023)
Rockfax Description
A grand and engaging little adventure, with a comfortable half-height belay option. Climb out of the lower cleft, and continue past two bulges; continue up the wall above, to reach a rest (possible stance) below a corner in the right side of the upper arete. Climb the superb, balancy corner to a steep exit. © Rockfax
FA. S.Titt, R.Crewe 28/May/1978.
Pembroke VDiff-HVS , UK Holiday Plans
User | Date | Notes | ||
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pauldrew | 3 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Now given HVS 5a in the new CC supplement - feels about right, particularly if you stay in the lower groove without wandering left or right. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Now given HVS 5a in the new CC supplement - feels about right, particularly if you stay in the lower groove without wandering left or right. |
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Alkis | 28 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: First pitch very underwhelming. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First pitch very underwhelming. |
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dinodinosaur | 20 May, 2019 |
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βeta: The second pitch as described in the wired guides definitive gets 4a, the CC select guide gives it 5a | βeta? | |
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βeta: The second pitch as described in the wired guides definitive gets 4a, the CC select guide gives it 5a |
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scott titt | 28 May, 1978 |
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βeta: On the FA I climbed the cleft and steep crack without going onto the easier ground on the left. Richard led the final corner, we were both very used to the steep corners of Swanage, and found this one easy so gave it 4a, the holds are huge, and the steepness can be avoided by wide bridging, in modern terms maybe 4c? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: On the FA I climbed the cleft and steep crack without going onto the easier ground on the left. Richard led the final corner, we were both very used to the steep corners of Swanage, and found this one easy so gave it 4a, the holds are huge, and the steepness can be avoided by wide bridging, in modern terms maybe 4c? |
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Grade: VS 4b ***
(Saddle Head)