Restricted Access
Superb crag with many different sections. The restriction affects the routes Star Wars to The Deerhunter.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction, to protect nesting Choughs, affects the routes Star Wars to Deerhunter.
Rockfax Description
The last of the trio takes a line up the wall directly below the overhang. Climb up to the right-hand of the two left-facing grooves, move up slightly rightwards then trend back left to a split in the overhang. Heave over this and finish up the crack. © Rockfax
FA. J. de Montjoye, Z.Leppert 28/Dec/1980.
Ticklists
Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , UK Holiday Plans , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Pembroke ticket
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PaulTanton | 10 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Felt reasonably solid to me but as usual with Pembroke you can never get complacent. The pull over the overhang was actually quite easy but the moves up and right above are pretty sustained. managed to get a reasonable wire above the overhang but it's a tad runout. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Felt reasonably solid to me but as usual with Pembroke you can never get complacent. The pull over the overhang was actually quite easy but the moves up and right above are pretty sustained. managed to get a reasonable wire above the overhang but it's a tad runout. |
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| plant_based_tommo | 26 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: some loose rock at the top! don't kill your belayer! there is plenty of solid rock to pull on so just be a bit discerning. Great route! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: some loose rock at the top! don't kill your belayer! there is plenty of solid rock to pull on so just be a bit discerning. Great route! |
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| ChristineR | 2 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pulled two massive blocks off at the top of this climb, exploded on the platform below, could have been serious/fatal for the three people below me | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pulled two massive blocks off at the top of this climb, exploded on the platform below, could have been serious/fatal for the three people below me |
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| tom.wp6 | 1 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Almost died from microwave-sized rockfall from previous pair. Be VERY careful on the topout (and placing gear in the overhang). Very loose blocks | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Almost died from microwave-sized rockfall from previous pair. Be VERY careful on the topout (and placing gear in the overhang). Very loose blocks |
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| rpg | 24 Apr, 2019 |
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βeta: Watch out for loose blocks at the overlap, I pulled a very large block out on the weekend. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Watch out for loose blocks at the overlap, I pulled a very large block out on the weekend. |
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| Pythonist | 15 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climb, with the holds getting smaller the higher you get, up to roof which has good holds once you get your feet right. 3* and one of the best in Pembroke. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Amazing climb, with the holds getting smaller the higher you get, up to roof which has good holds once you get your feet right. 3* and one of the best in Pembroke. |
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| Chad123 | 2 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Best line on the wall (except ghost ship), lots of nice moves with a pleasantly easy roof after a quite bold thin slab section just below. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Best line on the wall (except ghost ship), lots of nice moves with a pleasantly easy roof after a quite bold thin slab section just below. |
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| drcorbasisgod | 9 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agreed. Awesome wall climbing with a well protected overhang section to boot. I found traversing the wall to be the scary bit! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agreed. Awesome wall climbing with a well protected overhang section to boot. I found traversing the wall to be the scary bit! |
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| Smelly Fox | 15 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Quality face climbing with quality moves over the lip. 3 stars! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Quality face climbing with quality moves over the lip. 3 stars! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Bosherston Head
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Rainbow Warriors
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Linney Head Area)