The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Superb - sustained and delicate climbing to a steep finish. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 18/Apr/1994.
ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist , Portland , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Projects 6c-7a+ , Portland scheming , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems , Portland Pyramid (2024)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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stefangutnickallen | 30 May, 2023 |
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βeta: There is still a rusted out maillon on one of the staples, I tried but couldn't remove it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is still a rusted out maillon on one of the staples, I tried but couldn't remove it. |
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Jus | 5 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Really lovely fingery crux. Loads of nice rests. Big move off jugs to jugs at the top. 3 stars. | ||
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βeta: Really lovely fingery crux. Loads of nice rests. Big move off jugs to jugs at the top. 3 stars. |
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Adam Lincoln | 29 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Very good technical route, and much better than Medussa falls. Cool finishing moves from jug aswell. | ||
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βeta: Very good technical route, and much better than Medussa falls. Cool finishing moves from jug aswell. |
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Grade: 7a ***
(Coastguard North)