Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

30m.

Rockfax Description
The long corner flake is dirty and loose. © Rockfax

FA. Nic Hellyer 26/Jan/1997.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Wilbur 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Absolute bag. Enticing line but spaced bolts and crunchy rock (3 footholds disintegrated - one of which was crucial to get a QD in 3/4 the way up) makes this a bit of a frightener...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolute bag. Enticing line but spaced bolts and crunchy rock (3 footholds disintegrated - one of which was crucial to get a QD in 3/4 the way up) makes this a bit of a frightener...
Richard Horn 20 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 60m rope is required if you belay from the ground rather than the belay bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 60m rope is required if you belay from the ground rather than the belay bolts.
Pythonist 7 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely wonderful route. Enormous flake (layback-ed or otherwise) all the way past 7 (!) bolts. Recommended to anyone who can climb 6a+ or above. It's a bit of a soft-touch, but definitely still 6a+. Oh, and a 50m rope will only just suffice... Make sure you knot the loose end!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely wonderful route. Enormous flake (layback-ed or otherwise) all the way past 7 (!) bolts. Recommended to anyone who can climb 6a+ or above. It's a bit of a soft-touch, but definitely still 6a+. Oh, and a 50m rope will only just suffice... Make sure you knot the loose end!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stalker's Zone

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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