Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
The smooth wall has difficult moves over a bulge. Finishing on the upper section of Turned to Stone gives a worthwhile 7a+. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson 24/Aug/2002.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John_Beesley | 5 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Completely disagree with people calling this eliminate. The line is completely independent of turned to stone, you just have to be strong enough to do it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Completely disagree with people calling this eliminate. The line is completely independent of turned to stone, you just have to be strong enough to do it! |
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| samparsons | 20 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I disagree with Jimbo and Adam. It is close to the line on the left but the moves and sequence are really nice. You just have to want to climb it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I disagree with Jimbo and Adam. It is close to the line on the left but the moves and sequence are really nice. You just have to want to climb it. |
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| Adam Lincoln | 29 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree with Jimbo. Waste of bolts. Far to close to routes either side. Nothing worse in climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agree with Jimbo. Waste of bolts. Far to close to routes either side. Nothing worse in climbing. |
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| JIMBO | 8 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The top half is too close to the route to the right and you end up thinking "am I using the right holds". This is a poor situation to be in and spoils it. Do the bottom half and then climb the route to the left - would be worth doing then. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The top half is too close to the route to the right and you end up thinking "am I using the right holds". This is a poor situation to be in and spoils it. Do the bottom half and then climb the route to the left - would be worth doing then. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor South
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Esmeralda's Monkey
Grade: 7b ***
(Beeston Cliff)