The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Another quality line that is at the bottom of the grade. © Rockfax
FA. H.Venables 15.4.1989. FFA. Steve Taylor 3.10.1993.
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , The Portland Olympian Challenge (Pete and Butters's routes) , Spanish crew 2018 , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Olympian , Sam and Jerome (Portland Olympian) , Sam and Jerome 2.0 (Portland Olympian) , Portland scheming
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Dalai Farmer | 17 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Very little to hold on to on the top slab ! Not soft for the grade IMHO | ||
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βeta: Very little to hold on to on the top slab ! Not soft for the grade IMHO |
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Adam Lincoln | 29 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Brilliant route. Far far better than it looks from the ground! | ||
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βeta: Brilliant route. Far far better than it looks from the ground! |
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Ben Stokes | 31 Jan, 2005 |
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βeta: Easy climbing up to the mid height ledge and a really absorbing crimpy section above the overlap. | ||
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βeta: Easy climbing up to the mid height ledge and a really absorbing crimpy section above the overlap. |
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John Alcock | 6 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Excellent fingery crux. Tall people seem to make huge reaches between pockets. I found the intermediate crimps were quite adequate. | ||
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βeta: Excellent fingery crux. Tall people seem to make huge reaches between pockets. I found the intermediate crimps were quite adequate. |
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Grade: 7a ***
(Coastguard North)