Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Similar climbing to Captain Pugwash. The flake on the crux is suspect so treat it with care. The path has dropped away and a clip-stick is needed to reach the first bolts. © Rockfax
FA. Neil Burton 01/Aug/1997.
Ticklists
Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Alcock | 27 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very pleasant. It's a bit hard to handle the flake with care when you're laybacking it with all your might. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very pleasant. It's a bit hard to handle the flake with care when you're laybacking it with all your might. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor South
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Walking the King
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Coastguard South)