Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Very similar to To Wish the Impossible with escalating difficulties up the wall, narrow groove and headwall. © Rockfax
FA. Marty Hallett 16/May/1998.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| David Staples | 11 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose on the initial thin flaky crimpers. They can be a bit snappy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Loose on the initial thin flaky crimpers. They can be a bit snappy. |
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| John Alcock | 7 Nov, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A fun route of ascending difficulty, with a bitch of a move to on-sight to finish. Very red-pointable as the clips are nice and close when needed and once found (which I didn't)the final holds work well. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A fun route of ascending difficulty, with a bitch of a move to on-sight to finish. Very red-pointable as the clips are nice and close when needed and once found (which I didn't)the final holds work well. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor South
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Forget Columbus
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Coastguard South)