Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

21m.

Rockfax Description
A fine sustained groove leads to a swing left at the mid-height crux shelf. © Rockfax

FA. Helen Heanes 01/Aug/1997.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dan Browne 21 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: We found the guide book misleading, there are 2 shelves, straight up at the first is logical and appears to be the crux for us, defo not left. Then straight over the second at the break with a helping hand out left to get up onto the shelf. Flapped around for ages heading left at the first shelf then opted for straight up.
Show beta
βeta: We found the guide book misleading, there are 2 shelves, straight up at the first is logical and appears to be the crux for us, defo not left. Then straight over the second at the break with a helping hand out left to get up onto the shelf. Flapped around for ages heading left at the first shelf then opted for straight up.
John Alcock 18 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Thought the moves were fine, but the placing of two of the bolts was dire. I used a Frog for one of the clips.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought the moves were fine, but the placing of two of the bolts was dire. I used a Frog for one of the clips.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ausfahrt

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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