Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Take the small bulge near the top on the left via a tiny seam. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes 25/Jul/1992.

Ticklists

Portland , The Dorset Sub 7a Silly Name Game

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Sagar 16 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The guidebook beta about the top section may now be erroneous if anchors have been moved? Couldn’t see any way in which you would go left up a thin seam, at least not when there is a really obvious rightward section.
βeta?
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βeta: The guidebook beta about the top section may now be erroneous if anchors have been moved? Couldn’t see any way in which you would go left up a thin seam, at least not when there is a really obvious rightward section.
Lloyders 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: low in the grade i feel but a nice route... good top moves!
βeta?
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βeta: low in the grade i feel but a nice route... good top moves!
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: again here the route used to top out and the final moves were the hardest/most committing. I regularly see our taller visiters reaching through the crux moves to clip the belay rather than climbing them.
βeta?
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βeta: again here the route used to top out and the final moves were the hardest/most committing. I regularly see our taller visiters reaching through the crux moves to clip the belay rather than climbing them.
John Alcock 6 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Barely 6b if done on the left. I hate single bolt lower offs.
βeta?
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βeta: Barely 6b if done on the left. I hate single bolt lower offs.
Ewan 24 Jul, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: 2 moves near the top worth 6b+, the rest is fairly easy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2 moves near the top worth 6b+, the rest is fairly easy

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Buoys will be Buoys

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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