Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

10m.

Rockfax Description
A good pitch that has some excellent wall climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook 30/Apr/1995.

Ticklists

Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
gooberman-hill 6 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Crux at the top, heading for a hidden hold rightwards
βeta?
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βeta: Crux at the top, heading for a hidden hold rightwards
peter coombs 27 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Two hard to find holds at the top, harder than a lot of 4+'s in Swanage area.
Show beta
βeta: Two hard to find holds at the top, harder than a lot of 4+'s in Swanage area.
Wilbur 21 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I recently did this and have to admit i was pleasantly surprised - nice route. Still think it would feel very run out if 5 was the top of your sports grade. Solid rock though so not much fear of ripping a hold off..
βeta?
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βeta: I recently did this and have to admit i was pleasantly surprised - nice route. Still think it would feel very run out if 5 was the top of your sports grade. Solid rock though so not much fear of ripping a hold off..
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: as mr damo said Do Ixtlan!
βeta?
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βeta: as mr damo said Do Ixtlan!
Matt_b 1 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Perhaps could do with a bolt in the middle, not quite sure you'd deck out, but would probably not be a nice landing on the initial ledge. Not the greatest of routes.
βeta?
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βeta: Perhaps could do with a bolt in the middle, not quite sure you'd deck out, but would probably not be a nice landing on the initial ledge. Not the greatest of routes.
Richard Horn 29 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I did this yesterday and admittedly it is runout but the climbing between 2nd and 3rd bolt is about F3 at the most.
βeta?
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βeta: I did this yesterday and admittedly it is runout but the climbing between 2nd and 3rd bolt is about F3 at the most.
Wilbur 29 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: i i agree with David Penfold's comments. in the guide it says 4 bolts to lower off and yet there actually only 3. i reckon if you fell between the 2nd and 3rd bolts you'd deck out such is the run-out...
βeta?
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βeta: i i agree with David Penfold's comments. in the guide it says 4 bolts to lower off and yet there actually only 3. i reckon if you fell between the 2nd and 3rd bolts you'd deck out such is the run-out...
steve taylor 23 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Nope - it is runout, but was considered by the bolter to be "easy ground".
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nope - it is runout, but was considered by the bolter to be "easy ground".

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