Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

Rockfax Description
Climb to the large conglomerate crimps on the upper wall. © Rockfax

FA Historical, cleaned and equiped by John Leonard 2007.

Ticklists

4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
BertieP42 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Holds must have fallen off, now only seems possible with a reachy move with the right hand towards a nails crimp, then a desperate lunge to a beautiful sidepull and then to the top. Great fun when you get it
Show beta
βeta: Holds must have fallen off, now only seems possible with a reachy move with the right hand towards a nails crimp, then a desperate lunge to a beautiful sidepull and then to the top. Great fun when you get it
lz_p 7 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Broken hold makes this a 6a+/6b with a small crimp
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Broken hold makes this a 6a+/6b with a small crimp
lz_p 7 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Broken hold makes this a 6a+ with a small pinch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Broken hold makes this a 6a+ with a small pinch

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Stalker's Zone

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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