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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Rockfax Description
Climb the loose, dirty slab to a high first bolt. Step left and climb a corner until a traverse right reaches the first lower-off. There is a higher lower-off but the moves to reach it are hard, loose and dirty. Dangerously loose - do not climb. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
slothlord 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Today a massive chunk of loose rock fell while someone was climbing this route. It was a close call to the belayer as the rock fell next to him ( he managed to dodge it). Luckily no one was nearby when it happened. It’s a 6a that attracts beginners to try it out. This route must be either cleaned or debolted.
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βeta: Today a massive chunk of loose rock fell while someone was climbing this route. It was a close call to the belayer as the rock fell next to him ( he managed to dodge it). Luckily no one was nearby when it happened. It’s a 6a that attracts beginners to try it out. This route must be either cleaned or debolted.
Francescaparratt 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There was a huge rock break off today about the size of a microwave. Helmets recommended.
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βeta: There was a huge rock break off today about the size of a microwave. Helmets recommended.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Underage

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)

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