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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

20m.

Rockfax Description
Great technical face moves, but the contrived start spoils the overall feel of the route. Don't touch the chimney, it is off limits. © Rockfax

FA. Will Jones 1996.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
matt perks 26 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I think the moves at the start are great - technical and sustained with a great (and hard) rock-over after the third bolt but perhaps I wouldn't have discovered this if I hadn't needed more than one go to do the thin moves above the overlap. One of the hardest F6c+ routes I've done - perhaps I'm rubbish at slabs.
βeta?
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βeta: I think the moves at the start are great - technical and sustained with a great (and hard) rock-over after the third bolt but perhaps I wouldn't have discovered this if I hadn't needed more than one go to do the thin moves above the overlap. One of the hardest F6c+ routes I've done - perhaps I'm rubbish at slabs.
tomrainbow 11 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If this has been overwhelmingly voted as a 2 star route, why hasn't it been transferred as such in the guidebook? Well worth the two stars, really varied and balanced and the chimney doesn't feel too close.
Show beta
βeta: If this has been overwhelmingly voted as a 2 star route, why hasn't it been transferred as such in the guidebook? Well worth the two stars, really varied and balanced and the chimney doesn't feel too close.

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Red Rain

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Winspit)

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