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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Rockfax Description
Climb the lower wall to the centre of the roof. Pull powerfully through and finish steeply leftwards on pockets and edges. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Long Mar/2007.

Ticklists

Portland

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User Date Notes
Hannahwhaley 10 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The jug around the 4th bolt is sounding very hollow and loose, avoid if possible!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The jug around the 4th bolt is sounding very hollow and loose, avoid if possible!

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tennessee

Grade: 7c ***
(Coastguard South)

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