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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

21m.

Rockfax Description
A particularly good wall climb that, if caught in prime condition, warrants an extra star. Thin moves to a jug at the break are immediately followed by a stretchy move to get established on a stuck-on block. Some great flowstone finishes the pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 03/Oct/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Classic Portland 7as (2* +) , Portland , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour. , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland scheming

Feedback

User Date Notes
jasonmead21 24 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Felt hard from the ground. 2 distinct cruxes for me. One: gaining the crimps after clipping 3rd draw from side pull with pinky mono for added security. Two: gaining the block from the side pull.
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βeta: Felt hard from the ground. 2 distinct cruxes for me. One: gaining the crimps after clipping 3rd draw from side pull with pinky mono for added security. Two: gaining the block from the side pull.
Javielillo 2 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, high on grade. Crimpy section at the beginning followed by a committing reachy move to a good hold. The last part after the crux is very nice.
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βeta: Fantastic route, high on grade. Crimpy section at the beginning followed by a committing reachy move to a good hold. The last part after the crux is very nice.
emilijabl 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A superb line! Lots of varied moves throughout the route and the amazing flowstone finish felt like icing on the cake! A very worthwhile climb and not chossy at all!
βeta?
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βeta: A superb line! Lots of varied moves throughout the route and the amazing flowstone finish felt like icing on the cake! A very worthwhile climb and not chossy at all!
FabioM 15 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing sequence of fingery moves up to the jug, where you can have a good rest. One last hardish move to gain the block. 6a from the block to the chain with some amazing and satisfying flowstone climbing
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βeta: Amazing sequence of fingery moves up to the jug, where you can have a good rest. One last hardish move to gain the block. 6a from the block to the chain with some amazing and satisfying flowstone climbing
richardh 11 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: dirty snappy start, awful crimp moves and disappointing flowstone finish. not worth leaving the ground for!
βeta?
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βeta: dirty snappy start, awful crimp moves and disappointing flowstone finish. not worth leaving the ground for!
Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor 12 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: New bolt line to the right of Is Vic There is Sanjet Kiss a tough 7a+. The start and finish are still rather dirty but the middle section (crux) is fairly clean and has some good crimpy wall moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New bolt line to the right of Is Vic There is Sanjet Kiss a tough 7a+. The start and finish are still rather dirty but the middle section (crux) is fairly clean and has some good crimpy wall moves.

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 108
Votes cast 102
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Medusa Falls

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

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