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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

23m.

Rockfax Description
The tall arete is photogenic and very good, if rather unbalanced. The last few moves make up the reach-dependent crux. Potential hold-loss has likely made a hard move even tougher. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 04/Sep/1992.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

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User Date Notes
J1_TOV 10 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Extend clip 3 to save on drag over sharp edges.
Show beta
βeta: Extend clip 3 to save on drag over sharp edges.
J1_TOV 10 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Two very rusted maillons on two staples through the crux make clipping quite hard and potentially strain the gates when loaded due to the lack of space available. Near the bottom, some of the staples look slightly pulled although solid enough. At the top, the lower off is poorly situated making rethreading difficult. This route could probably do with some maintenance/attention because the climbing on it is very good.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two very rusted maillons on two staples through the crux make clipping quite hard and potentially strain the gates when loaded due to the lack of space available. Near the bottom, some of the staples look slightly pulled although solid enough. At the top, the lower off is poorly situated making rethreading difficult. This route could probably do with some maintenance/attention because the climbing on it is very good.

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kinaesthesia

Grade: 7a+ ***
(White Hole)

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