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USER ATTENTION

Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

21m.

Rockfax Description
A fine line that is both powerful and technical. Begin up Is Vic There? and continue direct up the wall and flowstone. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A gorgeous yet challenging proposition. Full of Beautiful, Powerful, and Intricate movement often requiring thoughtful and careful negotiation.
Start as for 'Is Vic there' break hard left after the crux from the third clip position, move under the flowstone hood into a second dynamic crux sequence to gain the underside of the stuck on block, once mounted move left and up to gain full access to the immaculate and unrelenting flowstone features above.

James Pymn 22/May/2021.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland Projects 6c-7a+

Feedback

User Date Notes
JIMBO 2 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Best done left over the bulge and not using the stuck on block, only moving right at the second to last bolt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best done left over the bulge and not using the stuck on block, only moving right at the second to last bolt.
Javielillo 30 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Quality line. Challenging start,sharing the first crux with is vic there? Another tricky clipping position and a beatutiful gift climb at the top with lovely tufas.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quality line. Challenging start,sharing the first crux with is vic there? Another tricky clipping position and a beatutiful gift climb at the top with lovely tufas.
Stroppy 27 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: After the stuck-on block it seems possible to go quite far left to some underclings but these lead to nothing? Interested to know if anyone has gone direct from here as I ended up further right, but quite close to Vic.
Show beta
βeta: After the stuck-on block it seems possible to go quite far left to some underclings but these lead to nothing? Interested to know if anyone has gone direct from here as I ended up further right, but quite close to Vic.
Gabbott987 22 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Line goes almost entirely right of the bolts, which makes it a bit confusing and a little contrived.
Show beta
βeta: Line goes almost entirely right of the bolts, which makes it a bit confusing and a little contrived.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
White Rave

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Dancing Ledge)

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