Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

21m.

Rockfax Description
A weird conglomerate crack that is topped off with a committing roof finale. © Rockfax

FA. Nic Hellyer 27/Jun/1996.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
RodsPG 18 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Strong interesting crack to start with, followed by an exposed roof, after many falls managed to fist jam and clip into the bolt, at the time there was a rusty carabiner on the top
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Strong interesting crack to start with, followed by an exposed roof, after many falls managed to fist jam and clip into the bolt, at the time there was a rusty carabiner on the top
Dandan 24 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Rusted maillon in bolt before the roof is now freely moving at least, so you can clip your draw in under it to avoid any snapping/bending risk
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rusted maillon in bolt before the roof is now freely moving at least, so you can clip your draw in under it to avoid any snapping/bending risk
xtinebushberry 15 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The roof can be a bit crumbly. Broke off a sizeable chunk and went flying.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The roof can be a bit crumbly. Broke off a sizeable chunk and went flying.
trythis 9 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: hard top
Show beta
βeta: hard top
AidanWebb 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Slightly trying start, moves into a very nice set of moves until the roof, boulder-lovers will enjoy the motion left and then a big haul to the last bolt will leave your hands bloodied (if you go for a fist-jam) but it's well worth it for the extra flair. An underrated exciting little number.
Show beta
βeta: Slightly trying start, moves into a very nice set of moves until the roof, boulder-lovers will enjoy the motion left and then a big haul to the last bolt will leave your hands bloodied (if you go for a fist-jam) but it's well worth it for the extra flair. An underrated exciting little number.
Ewan 7 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I lobbed off this route last Saturday when a substantial chunk of the crack above the roof came off in my hand and subsequently hit my belayer. Having lowered to check she was ok, I re-climbed the route to confirm the grade and quality remain unchanged.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I lobbed off this route last Saturday when a substantial chunk of the crack above the roof came off in my hand and subsequently hit my belayer. Having lowered to check she was ok, I re-climbed the route to confirm the grade and quality remain unchanged.

Logged Ascents

214 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 37 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 47
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
No Place for Mambas

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

Loading Notifications...