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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

20m.

Rockfax Description
A good line that has unfortunately been affected by rockfall near the top, and the final bolt is not in place. Despite this, the line gets climbed regularly. The thin wall and crack above lead to another short wall prior to the finish up steep ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Rebolted after a rockfall. Safe if you stay on the bolt line but PLEASE KEEP OUT OF THE GULLY!

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
AidanSykes 23 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Sort of onsight ~ thought the loweroff was missing. lent back on last bolt, only to see the loweroff above the roof. weird last move, traverse in from the gully.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sort of onsight ~ thought the loweroff was missing. lent back on last bolt, only to see the loweroff above the roof. weird last move, traverse in from the gully.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pregnant Pause

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor Central)

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