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Report of a lose bolt June 2023 - “One of the staples wobbles. As looking out at the sea it is the top left staple on the flat top of rock. This is directly above the iron ladder which gives access from Sharbutts Quarry to Sacred Angel Area”

from 14/06/2023

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

19m.

Rockfax Description
A steady little face-climb that heads right from Doughnuts and Duvets and then up the wall to the first roof and break. © Rockfax

FA. A.Jende 13/Mar/1993.

Ticklists

Portland

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User Date Notes
django 31 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: misread the guide book... its a tough 5a!
βeta?
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βeta: misread the guide book... its a tough 5a!
Daztheraz 4 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found last couple of clips quite scary for the grade
βeta?
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βeta: Found last couple of clips quite scary for the grade
Wilbur 7 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 6a+. Someone is either cruel, very strong or a bit of a prankster!
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βeta: 6a+. Someone is either cruel, very strong or a bit of a prankster!
silhouette 14 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Granted the middle bit may now be easier, but the last two bolts now seem to be the crux instead; high 6a perhaps or easy 6a+, but still not a 5+ in my opinion. Footwork would be too technical for a 5+ climber.
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βeta: Granted the middle bit may now be easier, but the last two bolts now seem to be the crux instead; high 6a perhaps or easy 6a+, but still not a 5+ in my opinion. Footwork would be too technical for a 5+ climber.
Ben Stokes 20 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It used to be, but the whole crag leaned back about 5 degrees when to top half of "Donuts for Duvets" fell down...
βeta?
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βeta: It used to be, but the whole crag leaned back about 5 degrees when to top half of "Donuts for Duvets" fell down...
silhouette 18 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There has just got to be a misprint in the 2005 guidebook hasn't there? This is 6a+ not 5+.
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βeta: There has just got to be a misprint in the 2005 guidebook hasn't there? This is 6a+ not 5+.
Ewan 3 Jun, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Generally easy 6a+, or 6a with a hard bit in the middle.
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βeta: Generally easy 6a+, or 6a with a hard bit in the middle.

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Guidebooks for Blacknor North

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 92
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Troubled water's - extension

Grade: 6a S1 ***
(Fisherman's Ledge)

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