Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Rockfax Description
A pumpy eliminate with some intense and sequency climbing. © Rockfax
FA. Joff Cook 1995. FFA. Pete Oxley 25.6.1995. This route caused much controversy when it was first climbed due to some glued-on holds being used! These are now long gone..
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| dryvita | 16 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Ground to middle section is pretty scrappy and indistinct but worth perservering as then turns into an amazing flowing sequence through the little roof and to the chains. I'd 100% give it three stars - the bottom is not great but no worse than other alleged blacknor central classics (Portland Heights for example in which you are literally wading through a back garden). As others have said, it's not the slightest bit elinimate - you'd have to go a LONG way out your way to use any of the holds on Shit Happens and not sure it would be any easier than the actual sequence. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ground to middle section is pretty scrappy and indistinct but worth perservering as then turns into an amazing flowing sequence through the little roof and to the chains. I'd 100% give it three stars - the bottom is not great but no worse than other alleged blacknor central classics (Portland Heights for example in which you are literally wading through a back garden). As others have said, it's not the slightest bit elinimate - you'd have to go a LONG way out your way to use any of the holds on Shit Happens and not sure it would be any easier than the actual sequence. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Central
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The Bad Seeds
Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend South)