Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

19m.

Rockfax Description
Great positions higher up with an exposed crux. © Rockfax

FA. Joff Cook Feb/1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Alcock 24 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Good route, but I wimpered on the crux. If you're a coward like me get your partner to climb it first and ask him/her to leave a long sling on the bolt above the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route, but I wimpered on the crux. If you're a coward like me get your partner to climb it first and ask him/her to leave a long sling on the bolt above the crux.
Rin C 17 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Good solid rock, and in a high wind, one or two tricky moves on the arete. Banten down your flares and enjoy!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good solid rock, and in a high wind, one or two tricky moves on the arete. Banten down your flares and enjoy!

Logged Ascents

143 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 36 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Burning Skies

Grade: 6c ***
(Blacknor Central)

Loading Notifications...