Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

Rockfax Description
The right side of the Monsoon Malabar arete. Begin 2m right of Monsoon Malabar. Head up easy ground and over a short slab to below the arete. The arete is technical. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The right side of the Monsoon Malabar arete. Starting 2 metres right of Monsoon Malabar make your way through easy climbing and over a short slab to a technical arete with minimal feet and right hands.

Sam Parsons 29/May/2021.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
just one more 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for the loose block as you start the arete section
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for the loose block as you start the arete section

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Superfly Guy

Grade: 7a ***
(Coastguard North)

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