Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

28m.

Rockfax Description
A good, strong line that gradually increases in difficulty with height gained. Start left of a low overhang, at a bolt above a vegetated ledge. Climb up vegetated ground to a long groove-line and follow it, passing a bulge on the left, to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 29/May/1995.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
fammer 14 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Go left at the first crux, and right at the second one.
Show beta
βeta: Go left at the first crux, and right at the second one.
marky 21 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Hard to OS @ 7a+ if you miss the large span out to the left at crux. 7b to OS. Mark. 20/04/03.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard to OS @ 7a+ if you miss the large span out to the left at crux. 7b to OS. Mark. 20/04/03.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pump Hitler

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)

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