The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
A good, strong line that gradually increases in difficulty with height gained. Start left of a low overhang, at a bolt above a vegetated ledge. Climb up vegetated ground to a long groove-line and follow it, passing a bulge on the left, to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Oxley 29/May/1995.
West Country Climbs , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+ , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems
User | Date | Notes | ||
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fammer | 14 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Go left at the first crux, and right at the second one. | ||
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βeta: Go left at the first crux, and right at the second one. |
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marky | 21 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: Hard to OS @ 7a+ if you miss the large span out to the left at crux. 7b to OS. Mark. 20/04/03. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Hard to OS @ 7a+ if you miss the large span out to the left at crux. 7b to OS. Mark. 20/04/03. |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Battleship Back Cliff)