Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

21m.

Rockfax Description
The middle of the blank wall has some nice climbing. Climb the rib to a thin wall and finish up an easier flake. © Rockfax

FA. Gorden Jenkin 22/Jun/1997.

Ticklists

Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
Climber_Bill 27 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice climbing, technical and sustained until difficulties end at half height. From there the climbing is easy but fantastic fun up the awesome flake and then over the little roof.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice climbing, technical and sustained until difficulties end at half height. From there the climbing is easy but fantastic fun up the awesome flake and then over the little roof.
nealh 29 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: this route has never been more than 6c, did very early ascent with a partner who rarely climbs 6c (he flashed it) done it since with very many partners all agress, nice climbing but easy
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: this route has never been more than 6c, did very early ascent with a partner who rarely climbs 6c (he flashed it) done it since with very many partners all agress, nice climbing but easy

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
China White

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Coastguard North)

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