Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

19m.

Rockfax Description
Follow the line of staples on the wall just left of the chimney to a cave. Move left out of the cave and up to a lower-off. The original trad line up similar ground was called Bag End, HS 4a. © Rockfax

FA. Meilee Rafe 30/May/2008.

Ticklists

4 - 5 Grade Climbs Portland Westcoast , Portland , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

Feedback

User Date Notes
johnl 22 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: This route does not go in the chimney or the cave, stay out they are horrible, it climbs the left side of the left arete of the chimney.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route does not go in the chimney or the cave, stay out they are horrible, it climbs the left side of the left arete of the chimney.
cocomosey 16 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rivers of loose rock and dust await the unsuspecting in the cave. Have your belayer stand well out the way! And shut your eyes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rivers of loose rock and dust await the unsuspecting in the cave. Have your belayer stand well out the way! And shut your eyes.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last of the Summer Wine

Grade: 5c ***
(Blacknor Central)

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